Car #1 Work Scope |
|
This car was rough when it arrived and still is to some degree. Below is the goal of the project and what has been accomplished so far. I’m not a purist and besides, this car was too far gone to restore it to original condition. I’m simply making the car what it should have been anyway.
The goal is restore the car to good condition with the emphasis being on performance based on 1969 NASCAR racing. I will use a mixture of new technology and original parts to create a near replica of an actual stock car. The car I have chosen to replicate is the #98 of LeeRoy Yarborough. The difference will be a “stock car” with modern suspension and brake components. It will keep the 428 Cobra Jet and C6 transmission for now. The engine has a new aluminum intake and new carburetor. An electric fan and aluminum radiator will cool the engine. The rear end will be changed to a posi-traction with the same gear in lieu of the conventional axle. (Any respectable muscle car must lay two marks on take off!) The interior will be a mix of aftermarket parts and reproductions of originals. Bucket seats will replace the bench and the column has been modified. The shifter will be on the floor. The lower dash is an original with the dash pad being fabricated out of sheet metal. Auto Meter gauges and a new wire harness from Painless Performance will replace the old. A roll cage will be added with harnesses to give it a racecar look. The back seat has been removed. Aluminum sheet metal and original parts will make up the interior trim. I will add a nice stereo system. The exhaust system is still under consideration but I’m leaning toward a custom system that exits to the sides, behind the doors through flat pipes. The fuel tank was removed, cleaned, sealed, and a new sending unit was installed. The exterior will be the original white color with decals matching the #98 of LeeRoy Yarborough. The difference will be that my company will be the sponsor on the quarter panel and it will have Homan-Moody decals on the fenders. I also switched the 14” argent wheels with Cragar 17”x 8” “soft eight” wheels. These were originally chrome due to a backorder but I had them sandblasted and powder coated black. My scheduled completion date is still unknown but I would like to be done by July 4th, 2005. Check out the pictures of progress below. Look at the cool suspension.
|
|
When it arrived, we removed the hood, fenders, and header pan. This picture shows some of the front suspension components removed to make way for the new one. It appeared that the car was wrecked on the right side as the A-arms and tie rods were bent. Next the stamped support system for the header pan and fenders was removed. The engine was removed and the shock towers were torched out.
After repairing some holes in the frame rails, it was time for the suspension. We used a tubular A-arm, coil over kit from Custom Rod & Motorsports in South Carolina ordered through Dearborn Classics. We also opted for the rack and pinion steering as well.
|
|
Left - Bro-in-law, Chris did most of the work.
Right/Right Down - installed coil over kit and rack & pinion steering |
|
Above - The stock oil pan had to go once the new cross member was installed. We also learned the hard way that you must have the rack installed before you mount the engine. After installation, the oil pan is about 1/4” from the rack. This was not an easy installation. You must have patience and be sure to check your measurements over and over fore cutting and welding. |
|
Above - The rack & pinion steering required modification to the steering column using a “d” shaft and Bourgeson joints. We also eliminated the column shift as we plan to move it to the floor and installed new Grant steering wheel. |
|
Rear Disc Brakes? Yes. A kit is available from Master Power brakes that is relatively easy to install. The calipers are Cadillac style. Ignore the rust as this picture was taken 6 months after installation. |
|
A lot of work was done cleaning up the rust and preparing the surfaces for paint. I grinded and sanded every square inch of the car. I used a lot of Rust Encapsulator from Eastwood. Do yourself a favor and get a good respirator, not a cheap dust mask, and quality safety goggles. I highly recommend Tyvek coveralls too. The EPA would be very upset with me as I have used my garage as a paint booth to spray primer. The following pictures are a before and after sequence. |
What’s Next? |
|
When Chris returns to town, we will weld in the new battery apron and panels over where the shock towers were cut out. We also have a few rust holes in the trunk area that requires cutting and welding. If we get that finished before he needs to leave, we will install the roll cage. Chris is the welder, not me. He also owns the welder.
In the mean time, I’m reconstructing and fabricating a new brace assembly for the nose. I call it the “box in front of the radiator support”. The old one is too rusted out to use but some pieces are reusable. The original is stamped so this is quite a challenge to make it with the equipment I have available. I’ve also just completed making a new package tray out of aluminum sheet. I’ll install it after the cage is installed. I have also purchased the metal to fabricate the upper part of the dash that will replace the dash pad. I hope to get started soon.
Below is a list of work to come in addition to things I have already talked about.
Assemble engine components (alternator, etc.) Install gaskets and exhaust manifolds Remove rear end and take to shop (Clutch & Driveshaft, Inc.) Finish trunk area with primer Paint Interior White Install sound deadening material Install new wire harness Have dash sections painted (Charles Body Shop) Install new fuel line from tank to pump Install floor shifter Install interior pieces fabricated (package tray) Install dash unit and gauges Run new transmission lines to radiator Install radiator, fan, and oil cooler. Install new “box” assembly for nose Install new oil lines from oil cooler. Install new hoses for radiator and heater core Install new rear end More, more, more. Keep watching for details.
|
